Experience it on High Definition.
Call SKY Cable at 381 0000.
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XOXO
Between Bites - Bites of Food, Travel and Lifestyle
An appetite for the good life!
Experience it on High Definition.
Call SKY Cable at 381 0000.
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XOXO
I had reservations when I first set out in Bali. What could be more exciting to see in Indonesia that didn’t already excite me here in the Philippines or elsewhere? Our beaches in the country are definitely beautiful and almost non-par with what the rest of the world can offer but there’s something about the verve in Bali, both easy and vibrant, that melted memories of chasing deadlines and working hours… and created memories of delightful bliss.
This Indonesian Island noticeably caught my interest from Day 1. There is a good mixture of different things to do, eat and experience in Bali –each place has its own personality and it’s only within each other’s striking distance. Ubud is a place full of things to love. There’s a lot of splendor to be found in Ubud –from food to talent. Below is a list of things to do, spots or sites to visit, and reasons that made me have an affair with Bali.
Tanah Lot Temple is located in the coastal side of the countryside which is about 1 hour and 15 minutes ride from Ubud. Tanah Lot means “Land in the Sea” while Pura means temple, this temple sits atop a large offshore rock being shaped continuously over the years by the ocean side. It’s located in Tabanan, about 20km from Denpasar.
For divers, Tanah Lot would resemble a coral reef near a coastal lip. Catch a spectacular view of the sunset behind a dry reef minus the swimming fishes. This is also considered as a “holy place” where some locals worship the Balinese sea gods. Check the corners around the Tanah Lot Temple and notice that holy tame snake in black and white color surrounding it as a seemingly guard of the temple.
Going around Bali is as easy as 1-2-3. One has at least 3 choices of transport. If you decide to travel to Ubud and other parts of Bali, it is best to contract a hired vehicle with driver, which can approximately cost PHP 1,600 –a group of four friends can break this amount down to only PHP 400 per head. That’s 9 hours of touring around at your own disposal –without worry of getting lost, carrying your things/shopping bags around and flagging down cabs. That includes a trip to Tanah Lot Temple and Ubud which are at least an hour away from the central of Bali.
Other than taxi cabs, tourists can also flag down motorbikes for a cheaper ride (something similar to going around Boracay). Get the actual thrill of gusting wind on your face while speeding up when you rent a Vespa instead. If you can’t afford to own a Vespa in Manila (at least 300K for brand new) like me (I seriously want a vintage one with a basket in front), then renting it in Bali is the next best thing.
And of course, wandering aimlessly by foot gets you to see the heart of Bali.
Take a short 1-hour drive to Ubud, the art village of Bali, and soak in the creativity and visions that unfold through dozens of art galleries in the area. Almost everyone seems to be an artist in Ubud and they rightfully have a knack at it.
Antonio Blanco Museum is one of the more famous art museums in Ubud. Antonio Blanco was born by Spanish parents who settled in the Philippines in 1911. He moved to Bali penniless, befriended the King and became the confidant of many powerful folks in Indonesia. His museum displays most of his paintings and artwork that involved baroque pornography, mostly women with exposed breasts. It has a wonderful garden patio that also has a corner for petting bird station.
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There are a lot of other galleries to go to in Ubud. It’s such a groovy artist village with numerous stores showcasing the Balinese creativity. Paintings/sculptures are not only a feast for the eyes –they also stimulate the mind and sometimes spark the heart.
Shop until you literally drop! There are dozens of outlet stores scattered all over Bali! A lot of those include surfing brands like Billabong, Surfer Girl, Rip Curl, etc. Head to the Billabong Factory Outlet to get the best discounts since the prices are cut by 30%, 50% and 75% depending on the items!!! What a steal!!!
The Night Life in Bali is pretty happening too. The energy varies where you choose to spend the evening. The Legian area has a much tamer crowd while Kuta, on the other hand, is the actual epicenter of night life in Bali. Eventful clubs and bars are lined up along its streets. Think of Boracay’s party center and that’s exactly what Kuta is. Sky Lounge is one of the popular bars in Kuta, Bali. They have several levels for different type of music and crowd. The party never stops here.
Since Kuta is party-bustling until midnight or past it, boutiques, galleries, restaurants and shops nearby also close late. Drop in a massage parlor for a Balinese massage that will kneed your tired muscles after a long night of dancing. Balinese massage is on the hard side that concentrates on pressure points on your feet.
Botanic Garden describes itself as a palace with the sky as roof and many different rooms, secret chambers, galleries and staircases. It is a lush and tranquil sanctuary just 1.2 kilometers from the heart of Ubud. The Garden serves as a unique tourism destination as well as a retreat for Ubud’s residents.
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Men like Bubba would probably find the need to snooze here but I appreciated the live paintings of beautiful flowers, greenery and flowing water that energized my chi that perfect cool morning.
Botanical Garden
Kutuh Kaja, Ubud (80571), Bali, Indonesia
Phone: +62 (361) 970951
Email: info@botanicgardenbali.com
Anthony Bourdain featured Bebek Bengil Dirty Duck Diner in his show No Reservations. Bebek Bengil opened in 1990 and has made the restaurant a popular spot for tourists to visit.
They are quite known for their Bebek Bengil Crispy Duck IRP 68,000 (PHP 340), which is half a duck steamed in Indonesian spices and then fried for a crispy finish with choice of sautéed potatoes and a side salad or steamed rice and Indonesian vegetables.
The brown fowl with glistening crispy skin and very lean duck meat was served with rice and vegetable side dishes. It has to be the crispiest duck Bubba and I ever tasted. Bubba almost didn’t want to share as he kept pulling at the meat, one bite after the next. Quite primitive with his bare hands but goes to show how much he enjoys the duck. Savor a decadently rich skin where taste is divine and almost melts in your mouth.
Bebek Bengil Restaurant
(Dirty Duck Diner)
Phone: 62-361-975-489
Padang Tegal, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
Anthony Bourdain’s Bali Special on No Reservations
Bali is the best spot to learn surfing for beginners. Odysseys Surf School is a surfing school supported by the Academy of Surfing Instructors Australia, Hard Rock Cafe, Surftime-Surf Mag and has a reputation for its open, fun and friendly atmosphere. It offers surfing lessons for beginners and intermediate.
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I had reservations about surfing since I am not a strong swimmer (I’m not a swimmer period) but Odyssey’s surfing instructor was really attentive and I felt safe under his watch. Their school is conveniently located in front of Kuta Beach, a beach very famous for its white sandy bottom, breaking waves and waist deep water, making the school the perfect and suitable place to learn surfing. It pumped the adrenaline and is one of the best activities I did in Bali.
Odyssey’s Surf School
G/F Mercure Hotel Arcade, Kuta Beach, Bali
Naughty Nuri is a hole-in-the-wall resto with the exterior looking like a small unassuming shack fronted by a smoking barbecue grill and an unmistakable queue. No matter how intimidating the ribs might look like at first or how full you are, a person will be able to finish a plate of full slab barbecued ribs in New York minute –that’s how fantastic their ribs are.
Naughty Nuri’s Barbecue Ribs, priced at IRP 85,000 (PHP400), give you three choices, pork, beef or lamb ribs. The perfectly smoked barbecued ribs exude sweet, smoky and piquant flavors. I didn’t fight the urge to grab it with my hands (more primitive than Bubba actually) –staining my small fingers with the barbecue sauce and charred flakes.
The ribs were well-coated with their special barbecue sauce from meat to the bones. Fall-off-the-bones tender ribs… it seems like my barbaric hunger for it will never end.
Oh and you might also want to order that with a dry dirty martini. New York Times claim they have the best in the world… along with those ribs. I’m willing to go back to Bali in a heartbeat if only for those mouthwatering and dream-inducing ribs.
Naughty Nuri’s Warung and Grill
Jl. Raya Sanggingan (Across the road from Neka Museum), Ubud, Bali
Phone: (361) 977547
Open Daily: 8AM-10PM
Jimbaran is known for the seafood restaurants along the long stretch of stunning white sand. The sky is painted with red, pink, orange and blue hues. It was literally the BEST sunset I have ever seen. And I’ve seen a few… in the most beautiful places in the Philippines –Boracay, Anawangin, Calaguas, Bantayan, Malapascua, etc. I don’t think my photo serves it justice but the actual sight keeps me in awe.
In accord, the heavens seem to expose more of its beauty as its palette change from gray and blue tone… to gray and pink tone with a stroke of blue… to an orange pink and off-whitish hue… magnificently whipping fragments of mixed shades making me think an invisible painter is standing close by.
The crab and chicken dishes at Aroma restaurant are delicious and inclined service is adequate and friendly. Don’t miss out in trying out the corn that vendors sell on the beach. It’s grilled corn on the cob basted with an Indonesian gingery spice that’s delightful tasty.
This was the most relaxing part of the trip. We stayed in Jimbaran for almost 3 hours soaking in the evening’s quiet breeze and the sea’s lovely presence.
Are you ready for a Bali trip? 😉 Armed with these must-visit places, I think you definitely are. Take me with you? I can fit in a 30-lb luggage mebbe? 😀
READ MORE:
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Get a piece of my travel adventures from the compiled list of links below.
Listed according to my favorites! 😉
Oh Hello Again Singapore (1st of 3 Parts)
Sentosa in Singapore (2nd of 3 Parts)
My Love Affair with Bali (1st of 3 Parts)
Memoirs of the Affair (2nd of 3 Parts)
A Whole Lotta Bali Lovin’ (3rd of 3 Parts)
Sneak Peek:
Wow.
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Zipline over the forest then over the beach is MEGA-adventure!!!
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Songs of the Sea
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Cambodia
Watering grounds at the Temple
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Art Museum in Ubud art village
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Stretched! My first time surfing!
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Get swept away!
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Ribs that didn’t make me sleep. DROOL!!!! I want to go back for this!
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Best sunset ever! Sweet, romantic meal I will never forget.
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Ho Chi Minh City’s Hidden Charm
Angkor Wat: Journey to the Lost City Begins
Inside Angkor Wat and the Beauty of Rain
Moving to Angkor Thom Aboard Big Feet
The Elephant Terrace, The Leper King and Phimeanakas
The Afternoon After Angkor Wat
Stay Tuned: The Last Leg of the Cambodia Series
Returning Home to Vietnam. Coming Home to Manila
Sneak Peek:
Great Steak at 3rd World Price! 😉
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A Kiss at the Ta Phrom
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I think I like you.
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Unleashing energy by the ruins 😉
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Peanut to Acorn (Teaser)
The Sun Shines Bright in Macau (1st of 3 Parts)
The Sparkle of Macau (2nd of 3 Parts)
After the Jump in Macau (3rd of 3 Parts)
Sneak Peek:
Venetian Macau at Night
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Guess what we are doing? Haha
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Getting crazy randomly in the streets of Macau
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Where we stayed, Venetian Macao Hotel
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Highest SKY Jump ever! 🙂
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I love you.
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Singapore and the Nuffnang Blog Awards
Singapore Day 3- IKEA and Connection
Indulge in Uniquely Singapore Experience
Sneak Peek:
Makasuntra Glutton Bay is the best hawker center at night!!! 😉
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Singapore Flyer
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At Chinatown Chinese Museum
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At Nuffnang Blog Awards Asia Pacific (thanks to Nuffnang for flying me here!)
Image Source: Sexy Nomad
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Singapore at Night
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Thailand Day 2- Reclining Buddha, Siam Niramit and the Ping Pong Show
Sneak Peek:
Temples and seeing a Monk’s passage
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Muay Thai dance ritual
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After Muay Thai Competition at Lumpini Stadium
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Foot Massage before the best Thai massage ever
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Sneak Peek:
First dinner in Malaysia. Indian resto, super yum!
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Clubbing in Malaysia
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Tandem Parasailing at Kota Kinabalu
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Sneak Peek:
Cute Panda
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I still can’t believe I rode this at Ocean Park
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Streets of HK
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Japan and Jane- The Kooka Boora Tales Begin
Reminiscent- Kagawa Perfecture Japan
Genky Umby Contest of Anton Diaz
Sneak Peek:
At Universal Studios, Japan
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With Nino at Universal Studios
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with Ronald making some Udon
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Narita Airport with other exchange studes
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Mount Fuji at the background supposedly. Gangsta style!
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Biggest Koi Pond I’ve seen
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Having fun with the kids of my “adopting” family
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Secret revealed… my new lover, Bali, has taken a space in my heart. The hush-hush connection continues…
The Sun Disappears So Beautifully in Jimbaran
The plan was to catch the sunset in Kudeta. However, the cab driver we talked to earlier that day suggested Jimbaran instead of Kudeta. Looking at the clouds, he said it would be cloudy in Kudeta that afternoon, besides Kudeta was pretty expensive. We didn’t mind spending more in Kudeta since it was the last night anyway but I had a feeling Jimbaran would be a better choice that day.
Our Usual Postcard Shot 😉
The cab reached Jimbaran around 6PM. Jimbaran is known for the seafood restaurants along the long stretch of stunning white sand. The cab driver suggested Aroma restaurant, saying it was cheap. It was not THAT cheap actually, but I would have paid double for the food, service and view we had. Orders were placed. The sun started to set…
The Left Side
The Right Side
The Center
The sky is painted with red, pink, orange and blue hues. It was literally the BEST sunset I have ever seen. And I’ve seen a few… in the most beautiful places in the Philippines –Boracay, Anawangin, Calaguas, Bantayan, Malapascua, etc. I don’t think my photo serves it justice but the actual sight keeps me in awe.
I keep gushing about her. There’s something about her that’s so appealing. Or maybe I’m just easy to please… but like any lover, Bali is also eager to please. Bali keeps on enthralling me.
In accord, the heavens seem to expose more of its beauty as its palette change from gray and blue tone… to gray and pink tone with a stroke of blue… to an orange pink and off-whitish hue… magnificently whipping fragments of mixed shades making me think an invisible painter is standing close by.
On the Table
Crab Szechuan
Deep fried crab appetizingly browned and loaded with garlic sautéed in partly sweet partly spicy brown Szechuan sauce.
The Vegetable Siding, Basket of Rice and Sauces
Grilled Corn Cob Rp10,000
I bought this from the corn stall nearby. There are quite a few selling –probably 10 meters apart from each other.
Garlic Fried Chicken
This was Bubba’s order and frankly I don’t remember getting a taste because he finished the whole quarter of a chicken.
More Photos:
This was the most relaxing part of the trip. We stayed in Jimbaran for almost 3 hours soaking in the evening’s quiet breeze and the sea’s lovely presence.
The Allure of Bali
Bali noticeably caught my interest from Day 1. There is a good mixture of different things to do, eat and experience in Bali –each place has its own personality and it’s only within each other’s striking distance. Ubud is a place full of things to love. There’s a lot of splendor to be found in Ubud –from food to talent.
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There are a lot of galleries to go to. It’s such a groovy artist village with numerous stores showcasing the Balinese creativity. Paintings/sculptures are not only a feast for the eyes –they also stimulate the mind and sometimes spark the heart.
How can I forget the very first time I touched tongue with Bali… the crispy duck skin that crackles as one breaks it from the meat… and dissolves deliciously inside the mouth? That first hello was still pretty timid. Things get down and dirty at the sight of Naughty Nuri’s ribs and smooth martini. The charred barbecued ribs emit a distinct flvor that leaves more to be desired. Several hours later we still can’t get it off our mind –like how one can still taste a lover’s lips even after a dozen kisses.
Ibu Oka Babi Guling, running out of roasted suckling pig 5 minutes after we arrived, teased and left me hurting a bit –a reality check that a lover is not here to stay. It’s very elusive and always teases “catch me if you can.” My desire for the tasty pork continues to yearn, almost begging me for another secret rendezvous someday.
Tanah Lot, shopping, surfing and Jimbaran –the list of reason to like her goes on. Bali is a food haven so irresistible that one can’t help but give in to sin.
There is always something about Bali that leaves you with… a lingering effect. I can actually still feel her on my skin. I cling to every warm memory of Bali that has opened my heart anew.
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…And the fervor is still in my body to carry on the story of a secret love. My Love Affair with Bali proved to be such a tease for an even wilder imagination of return.
Let me go on with the rest of where my tenderness for Bali is coming from.
Antonio Blanco Museum
Jana also suggested visiting this museum with a petting bird corner. She’s suspecting that the artist might be a distant relative of his boyfriend, Carlo. And further to my research, she might be right because Antonio Blanco was born in Manila on September 15, 1911. Both of his parents were Spanish who settled in the Philippines.
My “tourist-a” shot 😛
Follow the gray brick road
Other than the petting bird corner, Antonio Blanco also has dachshunds and monkeys in the museum grounds but we didn’t get to see them. We were offered welcome drinks as soon we reached the garden patio.
Bubba: Err… that’s actually my hand.
Blanco supposedly arrived in Bali penniless, but he befriended the king and became a favorite at court, becoming the confidant of many powerful folks in Bali and Indonesia.
The museum is actually homage to this famous Bali artist, showcasing a collection of his work. No cameras are allowed inside but a lot of his paintings and artwork involved baroque pornography, mostly women with exposed breasts.
The Blanco Renaissance Museum
Campuan, Ubud
Bali – Indonesia
Phone: 0062 0361-975502
Fax: 0062 0361-975551
Email: a-blanco@indo.net.id
Admission Fee: International Contribution Rp.50.000
Bye-Bye Babi Guling
After visiting the AB Museum, we headed right out to Ubi Oka Babi Guling. It’s time to put to the test if Bali has better suckling pig than the Philippines.
Getting out of the private car, we skipped our way to Warung Ibu Oka excited about another touch of tongue with Bali. We look for a vacant table and spot one inside, near where a table was just being served. The wait staff though started waving her hand and yelling, “Finis… finis.” We thought it was their closing time and we begged and begged to get a Babi Guling order, even as food to go.
Much to our chagrin, when she said, “Finish,” it meant that they ran out of Babi Guling. I suppose they only roast one or two suckling pigs a day for the restaurant. We couldn’t believe that we were only 5 minutes too late in tasting Bourdain’s “other” claim of best suckling pig. We asked if they had other branches, they didn’t. Not giving up that easily, we set out for the hunt. We kept asking around and our driver, I-Made said that there’s an original branch in the very house of the owner.
It was only a couple of blocks drive but when we got there, we found out that the restaurant there has moved to the new location, which is where we first started out. It has run out -so elusive, like a lover that wants to be desired.
Brokenhearted, we mounted the car.
Warung Babi Guling Ibu Oka
Jl Suweta Bali, Indonesia
+62(813) 38265706
The Day Settles in Pura Tanah Lot
The decision was to pass up the visit to Ubud market to still be in schedule for where we planned to see the sunset. The idea was to leave Ubud by 4PM to have enough time to get to Tanah Lot, which was 1 hour and 15 minutes drive from Ubud. It’s bordering the coast of Bali where this famous rock formation is home of a pilgrimage temple.
Tanah Lot means “Land in the Sea” while Pura means temple, this temple sits atop a large offshore rock being shaped continuously over the years by the ocean side. It’s located in Tabanan, about 20km from Denpasar.
The story behind Tanah Lot was when a 15th century priest named Nirartha traveled along the south coast, he spotted the rock-island’s beautiful setting and opted to rest there. Fishermen saw him and brought him gifts that tide him over the night. Before he left the next day, he instructed the fishermen to build a shrine on the rock because he felt it to be a holy place to worship Balinese sea gods.
Today, there is a holy spring that streams underneath the massive rock.
In Bali, the sun sets later than Manila, 630-ish. We reached the area right on schedule around 530PM with sufficient time to stroll around and find a good sitting spot. There is one blimp. My camera died. We tried taking photos from Bubba’s Nokia E63 but the resolution was less than satisfactory.
Gazing out the horizon, we settled to just enjoy the moment. We climbed one of the rocks across Tanah Lot and propped comfortably there, with the Like the Flowing River book and Evian facial spray on my side. I didn’t get to read a page because we got busy talking and watching people.
The sun started to set and I know that it sets faster than we expect it to finish. There are a few “photographers” in the area with instant Selphy printers. After a few debate, we decided to go for the photog. It’s not everyday we are in Tanah Lot for the sunset, might as well get a decent remembrance.
However, the decision came at a crucial time because the sun was almost out. And instead of getting one guy who had a lousy camera brand, I opted to wait for the one who was already taking a photo of a group. In short, we almost missed out the sunset photo opportunity anyway –even if there was already a camera to take the shot.
It was an irritatingly funny scenario. One can’t help but just smack the head and shrug.
Back to Legian
It took an hour to go back to Legian. We reached the hotel around 8PM. We paid I-Made our agreed price and an extra for the good service… and thanked him graciously for such a wonderful trip.
After resting and much-needed shower, the evening was set forth to meet Madz and company. But first, we had some Balinese foot massage.
The foot spa was soothing (but very HARD, the hardest foot massage I’ve experienced that it was almost painful –good thing I have high tolerance for pain. Bubba was wincing and asked his masseuse if he can do it lighter. Right after though, my feet felt very relaxed.)
Sky Lounge
Can’t I get enough of “sky” (I’m supposed to be on vacay!)? Madz SMS-ed that they moved there from another bar. We followed right after the foot spa.
Sky Lounge is one of the happening bars in Kuta, Bali. They have several levels for different type of music and crowd.
It was great to see Madz. I was so excited to tell her how beautiful Ubud is and how I missed her during the whole trip. We would have had fun eating the ribs -she has a healthy appetite too! She shared with me her day’s stories and we danced a bit.
Bubba and I only stayed a short time since we weren’t in the partying mood. The crowd in Kuta wasn’t the crowd we’d like to move and dance with –let’s just say it’s too rowdy for our taste. Albeit it’s an interesting crowd to watch 😉
Midnight Dinner at Surya Candra
Both famished, Surya Candra seemed to be the best option to have the late-night dinner. It’s also on the same street as Sky Lounge and the massage place. I ordered Singaporean chili crab that I missed to eat while I was still in Singapore 2 days ago (although I’ve tried it before with Jen during my Singapore visit last year). Bubba ordered chicken kebab. Drinks were 3 orders of watermelon fresh juice… it’s really very dry in Bali even in the evening.
By 1 AM, we’re ready to hit the sack.
The Morning After
I flicker my eyes open and relish such a wonderful adventure the day before… at the same time, welcoming the adventure that awaits me that Monday. March 22, 2010 is the date and it’s the date I will remember as my first shot at surfing.
Backtracking a little, Bubba suggested to do the beach activities first then the Ubud trip after. I considered otherwise because it’s always better to do the sights first or do the must-sees and must-dos before lounging. I was able to convince him to do Ubud trip first and today, we have a lot of time to just take it easy –perfect to be relaxed and unhurried right before returning to “reality.” At least you’d have “baon” (package) of peace when we go back to bustling Manila and back to the grind.
Odyssey’s School of Surf
First stop was Odyssey’s school in Mercure Hotel. I was semi-game to enroll prior to the trip. When we arrived there, I became really hesitant to enroll. I told Bubba that I’d be happy to just watch and take photos of him getting his handle on surfing.
Odysseys Surf School is a surfing school with a reputation for it’s open, fun and friendly atmosphere. Established in 2003 and sponsored by Oakley and supported by the Academy of Surfing Instructors Australia, Hard Rock Cafe, Surftime-Surf Mag, it has surfing lessons for beginners and intermediate.
The Surf School headquarter is located at the Mercure Hotel Arcade just in front of Kuta Beach, a beach very famous for its white sandy bottom, breaking waves and waist deep water, making the school the perfect and suitable place to learn surfing.
The friendly front desk person at Odyssey tells us though that the high tide is coming in and it’s better to set the schedule around 330PM. We gladly obliged with their safety protocol.
We first stopped by the beach and enjoyed the morning sun for one hour.
Shop Until You Drop
Right after Odyssey, we head out to the Billabong Factory Outlet. The prices are cut by 30%, 50% and 75% depending on the items!!! What a steal!!!
I bought myself a green Billabong gym/utility bag that costs only P1,500. I thought of buying one also for my sister Joanne –I’m sure she would like it. 2 Billabong bags for P3,000? Not bad. This would probably retail in Manila at approx. P3,800 EACH. I bought a pink cap, shorts, pink slippers and hot pink top. Super cheap. Period.
Lunch at Made’s Warung
I basically followed Jana (and Bubba’s) suggestions and this time, it was Made’s Warung that I eyed on the list.
On the Table
½ Nasi Campur ½ Gado Gado Rp 35,000
Nasi Campur, along with Nasi Goreng (slightly similar), is one of the more popular Indonesian dishes. Nasi Campur (or read as Nasi Champoor because the Indonesians pronounce their C as “ch”) is an Indonesian type of mixed rice topped with various meats, vegetables, peanuts, eggs, and fried shrimp chips.
Gado Gado is a traditional Indonesian salad served with peanut sauce dressing. The plate looks so busy with Nasi Campur and Gado Gado on its own are a mixture of various components but put them together and it’s really a crazy plate in front of you. Complicated in the eyes, simple yummy-ness.
Curried Crab Rp 55,000 (served with brown rice Rp 5,000)
I thought it would be served with a whole crab. It was like a curry stew of vegetables and vermicelle noodles with shredded crabmeat –barely any crabmeat at all. I discourage ordering this.
Vanilla Milkshake Rp 25,000
It was too sweet
Mango Fresh Juice Rp 15,000
Relatively okay but not as sweet as our fresh mangoes
Green Tea (2) Rp 15,000
It was basically a hot day that got us ordering 4 drinks
After lunch, we roamed the streets for more shopping. Items can be cheaper in Siem Reap, but there are some cheap finds in Bali as well, not necessarily in the factory outlets. The only sad note is, the vendors try to rake it in with the foreigners. So always barter at least half the price.
Made’s Warung
Br. Seminyak Kuta, Indonesia
Surf’s Up!
We dropped our things in the hotel and returned to Odyssey. Despite my fears (I am not a good swimmer at all), I finally decided to give it a try. There’s no hurt in trying. Odyssey’s service is commendable. There’s free locker storage for your things –I won’t usually leave my passport behind but it was really safe there because the senior staff guaranteed security himself.
The instructor, Gary (I hope I got it right) introduced himself with a big smile. He brought us to the roof deck of the Mercure hotel and taught us the basics. First: the parts of a surfboard. Second: what not to do at the beach. Third: how to get on your surfboard and surf. Seems easy to remember.
The roof deck of the hotel is quite nice. It has a nice infinity pool that overlooks the beach. I might consider staying here on the next visit.
After the quick lesson and the drill, we headed to the beach. The three of us did some warm-up exercises.
Starting
Guess where’s Janey?
Strrrrretch!
And there we were, standing on the beach with surfboard on the side looking at the waves.
My heart started a drum roll inside. Gary said it’s a 3-feet wave. I asked him what was the biggest wave he’s ever ridden (with the idea of chatting him up to delay me getting in the water.) He said that in 2006, he rode 10-12 feet high wave some place outside Bali (I forget, the drum roll was just too noisy).
Gary noticed my stalling and directed us to the water. I hesitated, “gentleman first.” He laughed and with a big smile, he said there’s nothing to be scared of. I followed him.
I rode on the board and faced my adversary. Not the waves. The weak ME… This is it. There’s nothing behind me. Gary assisted me and turned me at the right moment, facing the beach… he goes, “1-2…”
I felt the incoming wave push my board forward. This is the time I should get up, I told myself. It’s not yet snow time but I froze in place. The waves sweep me to the shore with me resting on the board. I look back at Gary, scared to disappoint him, but his face was only all smiles –the best one I’ve seen among Balinese. That prompted me –not to lose that smile –and therefore I tried again.
This time, I tried to get up. I moved one foot and then the next… and splashed.
The third time, my goal was to be able to stand up. I did. I had an absolute triumph over myself for being able to stand on the board. My form could be better I suppose but no one can steal my moment of glory. I was in complete shock and elation. Such an adrenaline rush!!!
I was getting the drift of catching the wave… But there’s one thing that Gary didn’t teach -it’s landing. I didn’t know how to break, so I splash on the water pretty bad. At first, it was standing up that I was afraid of. Later, it became the getting down the board that scared me… because I spill and find the board in front of me and incoming wave… a big NO-NO.
Eventually, I got the hang of it.
It took some time before Bubba was able to stand on the board (and yes, I say that with a lot of pride for getting it on the 3rd try tee-hee. I think he was quite proud of me too because he kept cheering and beaming).
During the first session though, the board was in front of me in two occasions and trying to avoid the first one put ugly scratches on my left foot, while the second one saw the board bumping my head with a big thud.
I was worried at first. I’m so particular with my skin.
We had a break after 30 minutes.
Bubba finally got up on the board during the second session. Hooray! 🙂
Third session, I just decided to let Bubba take it all-in while I shoot him from the shore.
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After surfing, we walked back to Odyssey office just across the beach. The front desk, who signed us up earlier, welcomed our return and asked how it went. “So much fun!” She handed us towels and directed us to their private showers at the back, where we washed off the sand and toweled ourselves dry before going inside the office again. We changed in the changing room and retrieved our stuff from the lockers. We looked at our surfing photos in the computer, paid our dues and gave Gary an extra for his patience.
The Odyssey staff bids us with a warm farewell. I walk with a different strut –more sure of my steps. I walk out of their school with a memento marked on my left foot –it’s still fresh… tender… with dried up blood… that will eventually look like scars. It’s a reminder of how I conquered my fears against not being able to swim or moving waters… surfer dudes might laugh at my small achievement –but it’s a conquest I thought I would never be on. Threading on moving water. And I claim that small victory.
I can proudly look at the war wounds (scrapes) and remember my first-ever surfing experience in Bali.
A Lot of Bali Lovin’ (3rd of 3 Parts) is coming right up…
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If I could afford myself luxury, I’d probably take that. It’s not to say I’m not a go-getter. I very much am especially when I set my mind to it. But I don’t push things not easily within my means. In the meantime, I look at the beauty of rustic finds and being close to nature and community. That’s the reason I fell in love with Siem Reap, the land of the majestic Angkor Wat. There’s not much in their city or from their countryside, you’d actually feel that it’s a developing country (so Third World), but there’s so much culture and history in the place and people –it opens yourself up to what living is… a collection of struggles and triumphs.
Siem Reap’s laidback atmosphere, coupled with experienced culture that’s intense in survival, endeared me to it. Despite having gone through a really depressing history, people here can give a smile from their heart to visitors from foreign land. It’s a city where living is cheap, where liking something doesn’t involve calculations in your head… where one can thread the day by the heart or gut. At least, that was my experience.
I still love Siem Reap but I think I took in a lover with Bali.
I Almost Never Met My Lover
I didn’t think I’d be doing another Asian trip this soon since I told myself that I would refrain from traveling Asia and save up for a big Europe trip Q3-Q4 this year. But I couldn’t resist when Maddie invited us to join her and her cousin Rexie to a Singapore-Bali trip. I always have fun when my Maddie is around. We paint the town red enjoying each other’s company. We’ve had so many little adventures in Pampanga, the beautiful Anawangin and a heritage Ilocos Norte region tour and mis-adventures (mischievous?) in the Metro. It would be great to experience an out-of-the-country trip with her and with a “group.”
The first few days were spent in Singapore. We bonded with Madz Day 1 and 2 in Singapore but Day 3 and 4 she met with her sister who just flew in. That was the time we only got to spend together since her cousins’ group had other plans. I didn’t mind because at the end of it, I really enjoyed reconnecting with Bubba in Singapore and Bali. The last two days and 3 nights were spent in Bali. I was excited about Bali, it being my first trip there but I didn’t expect that I would develop quite the affection for the city.
We touched down late Saturday night in Bali. We had some dollars exchanged in the airport to tide us over. Exchange rate was pretty low at USD 1 to 8,700 Rupiah (instead of USD 1 to IRP 9,290). Grabbing the airport cab wasn’t difficult. Just pay at the airport cab counter (IRP 55,000 or approx. PHP 250), which was just right outside.
15 minute ride to the Legian area where the Vilarisi hotel is located. On the way, the cab driver offered his services as a private car service if we plan to tour around Bali the next day. He ticked off sites to see but we already know pretty much which we wanted to visit and asked if he can follow our itinerary. He said yes and we agreed on a price and time to meet the next day.
Vilarisi Hotel
Vilarisi Hotel is located in Jalan Melasti/Lebak Bena 15x Legian, Bali, Indonesia. It’s right at the border of Kuta and Legian. Kuta, which reminds me of Station 2 of Boracay, is the most crowded place in Bali being the biggest party and clubbing venue. Madz and her cousins and cousin’s friends (5 gals) decided to book a hotel right smack in Kuta, named Kuta Town House, owned and managed by an Australian who relocated in Bali. I wanted to stray off the noisy area and just go there on my call when I feel like to that’s why we decided to book in Vilarisi.
Across Vilarisi Hotel
Vilarisi is a budget hotel, clean and well maintained, where Kuta beach, shopping centers and nightlife are nearby. The hotel has a touch of traditional Balinese architecture that has a mix of modern and ethnic interiors and a garden style for outdoor breakfast/dining. The lobby and restaurant have a blend of Balinese and Javenese stone carving and painting. Room charge per night was about USD 32.
Vilarisi Hotel
Jalan Melasti / Lebak Bena 15x Legian – Bali – Indonesia
Telephone 62 361 768010 Facsimile: 62 361 768012
Email: info@vilarisi.com
Bound for Ubud
We quickly grabbed breakfast at the hotel café (garden table outside) and noticed that a lot of Europeans were staying in the same hotel.
9:30 AM was the agreed time to meet but I-Made, cab driver, was 15 minutes late. Although I’m very particular with meeting time, I didn’t let it ruin the beautiful morning in Bali. To our surprise, he arrived with a new Avanza mini-van, which is to our advantage than the old car he drove the evening before that had a musty smell.
We were supposed to hire a private van (Avanza as well, more leg room for Bubba) but decided to just go with I-Made since his price was much lower. So lucky us! It was such a treat talking to I-Made too because he spoke good English and was Bali-born and such an easy fellow to talk to.
Goa Gajah
The first stop of the day was a famous landmark in Ubud where local worshippers also visit. Goa Gajah dates back to the 11th Century and is also known as “The Elephant Cave,” named after the Elephant River (Sungai Petanu).
You pay IRP 6,000 at the gate and they will lend you a “sarong” if you’re in shorts or skirts. Goa Gajah still has the temple inside and therefore requires proper clothing to enter as a sign of respect. Bubba got a sarong while I put on my pink maxi dress over the dress I was already wearing!!! Bubba kept teasing that I looked Korean with my attire.
We kept laughing photo after photo. I know, I know, my combo attire looked ridiculous but I didn’t want to cut time to go to the change room 😀 So please be very forgiving.
The exterior of the cave had massive carved faces and a mouth for an entrance that was very narrow. It’s such a small cave enveloped with darkness except for the lighted candles inside where shrines at both ends stand.
Ancient Stone Relics
Bathing Pools
Pura Goa Gajah
Peliatan, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
Admission: IRP 6,000
Open Daily: 8AM-5PM
Botanical Garden
Botanic Garden describes itself as a palace with the sky as roof and many different rooms, secret chambers, galleries and staircases. It is a lush and tranquil sanctuary just 1.2 kilometers from the heart of Ubud. The Garden serves as a unique tourism destination as well as a retreat for Ubud’s residents.
Pathways and steps join five hectares of natural ravine that include an Orchid Garden, a vast collection of ferns, palms, bamboos and tropical trees, Bali’s first Maze, an Islamic Garden, Amphitheater and other features. The Amphitheatre of the Garden can be rented as a venue for weddings and other events.
Founded by German writer Stefan Reisner, the Botanic Garden Ubud was established to safeguard Bali’s precious flora and enhance environmental consciousness.
From a few people in Goa Gajah to this quiet solitude in Botanical Grden, it was great to have a standstill moment.
I stood in the middle of the meditation point and relished the fresh air. I look up and see the sun smiling down at me in the spaces where the ray’s gleam touches my face.
It took us only 15 minutes to go around the garden. That short time though felt lasting because the silence and tranquility-scene brought calmness in my body and mind.
Botanical Garden
Kutuh Kaja, Ubud (80571), Bali, Indonesia
P.O. Box 37
Phone: +62 (361) 970951
Fax: +62 (361) 971 165 / 970 951
Email: info@botanicgardenbali.com
Both the Goa Gajah and Botanical Garden visits bought newness to my otherwise regular morning, giving me moments communing with nature.
Bebek Bengil Dirty Duck Diner and a Theme Song
Many many thanks to Jana who emailed me and provided most of the places to go to and must-visit restaurants in Bali!!! Her information was really helpful and descriptive –I enjoyed her suggestions! It probably also helped that we appreciate the same things/food. I can’t discount Bubba the much-due credit –merely due to the fact that most of the Bali research he did on his own proved to be so useful too.
Bebek Bengil Restaurant was first opened in 1990, as what their signage claims. The name of the restaurant came about when one tropical monsoon morning, a flock of ducks from the rice field in the area ran quacking into the restaurant. They supposedly left muddy webbed footprints all over the place while it was in the closing stage of construction. Being their very first guests in droves, they decided to name the diner after them, which is quite cute if you ask me.
The place was bigger than how it looks from the outside. There are two general areas for dining and separate huts for more privacy. We sat in the area near the rice field-green scenery.
On the Table
Bebek Bengil Crispy Duck IRP 68,000 (PHP 340)
Half a duck steamed in Indonesian spices and then fried for a crispy finish with choice of sautéed potatoes and a side salad or steamed rice and Indonesian vegetables.
The brown fowl with glistening crispy skin and very lean duck meat was served with rice and vegetable side dishes. It has to be the crispiest duck Bubba and I ever tasted. Bubba almost didn’t want to share as he kept pulling at the meat, one bite after the next. Quite primitive with his bare hands but goes to show how much he enjoys the duck. Savor a decadently rich skin where taste is divine and almost melts in your mouth.
Chicken Kebab Pepper Rice IRP 53,000 (PHP 265)
The kebab with alternating skewered chicken meat and vegetables was served on a white plate with lemon rice. With Bebek Bengil satisfying my expectation, I didn’t expect much of the chicken kebab, other than it not being dry. It was grilled to a gourmet’s delight with creamy peppery mushroom sauce that had a hint of Bleu Cheese.
Ubud Street Cocktail IRP 25,000 (PHP 125)
Blend of pineapple, mango, mint, lemon and some liquor
Great to get a squeeze of fresh lemon/orange to wash the cholesterol-taste and spiciness off your tongue.
The wait staff was clad in a traditional Balinese get-up and their service was adequate. Bebek Bengil made such an impression that we created a hymn for it. “Bebek Bengil… Bebek Bengil… Bebek Bengil” with body swinging from side to side. It was like a mantra hymn. Ask me about the hymn’s tune when you bump into me 😉
A song emerges that triggers this beautiful memory –am I really getting attached to Bali? I’ve known her for a short time.
Bebek Bengil Restaurant
(Dirty Duck Diner)
Phone: 62-361-975-489
Padang Tegal, Ubud, Bali, Indonesia
Anthony Bourdain’s Bali Special on No Reservations
Neka Art Museum
We only went around the ground floor area and decided not to go inside. The sight of the delicious ribs across the street already took our concentration.
Time check: 3PM. Last meal we had was only 15 minutes ago but we are raring to get our hands on some ribs!
Getting Down and Dirty at Naughty Nuri’s
Warung in Indonesia means small casual restaurant. Naughty Nuri is like a hole-in-the-wall resto with the exterior looking like a small unassuming shack fronted by a smoking barbecue grill. But inside which is composed of two dining rooms, it feels like a pub with the walls adorning chalkboards with their menu and framed newspaper clippings about Naughty Nuri.
The dining space is definitely limited and the temperature outside is almost the same as the inside with the ceiling fan succumbing to the summer heat. It’s hard to get seated that’s why we shared the table with four other strangers. Jana’s advice was to order a plate per person, no matter how intimidating the ribs might look like at first. Our excuse of not heeding that advice was we barely digested what we just consumed.
On the Table
Martini IRP 90,000 (PHP450)
Bubba also researched that Naughty Nuri serves the best vodka martini in the world (whether that’s accurate, it must be at least the best in Bali)! Bubba ordered that and it was served first.
The wait staff shakes the container in front of us and Will Smith’s “Getting Jiggy With It” song comes to mind. She swiftly pours the cocktail up to the brim of the martini glass and instructed me to drink it. I sipped a little and she poured the rest of what was left in the container in.
The martini goes down very smoothly but it was without doubt packing a punch. It was a delightful martini setting a strong hit.
Fried Potatoes IRP
Barbecue Pork Ribs IRP 85,000 (PHP400)
I forget if we specified what ribs we ordered but what came to the table seemed to be beef ribs because the bones are bigger than your usual pork ribs. There are three choices, pork, beef or lamb ribs. I was intrigued to try the barbecued lamb ribs.
I expected the ribs to take some time since they cook it to order. But it was a short 15-minute wait when both our ribs and the other couple’s ribs arrived. Noticeably for the newer customers, it was a longer wait.
A Color-Washed-Out Portrait of Naughty Nuri’s Guests
The perfectly smoked barbecued ribs exude sweet, smoky and piquant flavors. I didn’t fight the urge to grab it with my hands (more primitive than Bubba actually) –staining my small fingers with the barbecue sauce and charred flakes.
The ribs were well-coated with their special barbecue sauce from meat to the bones. Fall-off-the-bones tender ribs… it seems like my barbaric hunger for it will never end. Mighty impressive barbecued meats. A meat-lover will certainly appreciate this place since Australian Lamb Chops are also available.
I love washing down the ribs with the martini. Best ribs, best martini. What more can you ask for? Smoked ribs and smooth martini –a combo oozing with much sex appeal. I couldn’t help but flirt back.
Service was so-so but nothing to crow about. It’s an open shack teeming with patrons after all. Their tasty specialty is indeed worthy of praise –as New York Times and Anthony Bourdain have featured them. Loose your self in the most delicious grilled barbecue pork ribs in this side of the world at Naughty Nuri’s. Definitely something you’ll be raving about for days to come.
Naughty Nuri’s Warung and Grill
Jl. Raya Sanggingan (Across the road from Neka Museum)
Ubud, Bali
Phone: (361) 977547
Open Daily: 8AM-10PM
Memoirs of the affair to be continued…
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Majestic Angkor Wat in Cambodia
ME finding roots at Ta Prohm, Cambodia
SKY JUMP, Macau Tower.
Milan, Italy
Colloseo in Rome
Parasailing in Manukan Island, MALAYSIA
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