A tip off can lead to the arrest of a high-powered official or it could help the most venerated African nationalist leader be seized by agents of South African police special branch in 1962. This valuable tip I got came from Sanju of Table for Three, Please. The website is one of my top favorite reads when I need to enliven my passion for glorious food or writing. Sanju is the same guy who had me seek out a restaurant specializing in octopus dishes and consume a moving, partially-live octopus in Korea. That was quite an experience.
While dining at Elbert’s Best of the Beast dinner in July 2013, Sanju and the rest of us prisoners of fantastic food exchanged notes on the latest in the Manila food scene. And he talked enthusiastically about Sensei Sushi. Eugene and I looked at each other and knew, we’d pay top bill to be there. The three of us set a date and ended up with 2 more in tow.
No undercover agent was placed in the inner circles of influential gatherings. And no, this tip didn’t lead to any covert ops. It piloted to a spectacular culinary journey.
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Sensei Sushi is quite a drive for us Northerners but the 20-seater restaurant in BF is worth that early Saturday drive. Our 6-man group reserved ahead and went for the Degustacion (P2,000 per head).
We arrived at the restaurant and got welcomed by Chef Bruce Ricketts. I’ve met Chef Bruce very briefly during his stint at Robot in Makati and now, he has opened his own. Sensei Sushi’s interiors are very simple with their ala carte menu written on a blackboard for the walk-ins.
The degustation menu is omakase-style. Omakase is a Japanese phrase that means “I’ll leave it to you” which also means to entrust. Don’t you worry child, we are not talking about love. On this front, everything about the degustation menu is left entirely to the chef who creates the dishes based on what is available fresh in the local market and on his culinary thrust or creativity that very moment.
On the Table
Tuna Soy, Pineapple with Kangkong Tempura
The dish came out looking like a garden patch freshly watered and kissed by the sun. The tuna cuts seared on the sides with roasted brown sugar and pickled scallions are brimming with brightness, freshness, some nuttiness and a sweet citrus taste.
The black sesame seeds make it reminiscent of Japanese cuisine but it’s not entirely pacific rim. The kangkong tempura adds texture to the somewhat melting tuna with all the stark flavors sweating in your mouth.
Salmon Belly Kushiyaki
The second dish was the salmon belly cubed, skewered and grilled skin side down, then finished with Jap mustard fusion and touch of truffle oil, garnished with bonito flakes that looked like wood shavings.
I snatch a bite of the light-orange-pink salmon –delicately plump, juicy and moist, and the grilled skin almost peeling off of it –crispy, salty and smoky.
Ebi with Flour Tortilla Aligue
Another beautiful looking plate and structural dish with two shrimp heads standing on guard while peeled shrimps balance on the tortilla bridge with a drizzle of aligue cream. The shrimps were cooked in chili oil, infused in glaze with chili bean paste. The shrimp, ever slightly undercooked, allows it to disappear almost instantly after a bit of munching, except when you use the tortilla as spoon, it gives you a textural crunch after the fragile shrimp.
The shrimps’ curled up flesh is creamy yet scuffling with some heat. I pursued that spark of intensity hunting it down the shrimps’ heads sucking what delicious fat I can. Unrestrained, I bite off the soft parts of the head where all the superior flavors are – and scrape the caramelized glaze with my teeth until it’s cleared off it.
Hokkaido Scallops
Recent Table Guest